# Buying a Used Porsche 911, Cayman or Boxster: What to Check A buyer's checklist for used Porsche sports cars: which generation suits you, IMS bearing, bore scoring, over-rev data, service history and inspection. Source: https://porschetrails.com/guides/buying-a-used-911-or-cayman/ Porsche sports cars are well made, and a high proportion of all those ever built are still on the road. They are also complicated, expensive to put right and sold in a market where condition and history matter far more than age or mileage. A careful purchase is worth the effort. ## Decide what you want it for - **Road trips and daily use.** A 997 or 991 Carrera, or a 981 Boxster or Cayman, is comfortable, quick and practical. A Carrera 4 or Targa 4 adds security in bad weather. - **Lowest cost of entry.** A 986 Boxster or a 996 Carrera. Both are much better cars than their prices suggest, provided the engine questions below have been answered. - **Track days.** A Cayman of any generation is the easy choice. GT3 and GT4 models are made for it and priced accordingly. - **A classic.** A 911 SC or Carrera 3.2 is usable and simple. A 964 or 993 is more modern to drive and more expensive. A 944 or 968 gives a lot of car for the money. - **Electric.** A used Taycan has depreciated heavily, which makes it good value, but check the battery recall history carefully. The [model guides](/models/) describe each generation and its variants. ## History first - **Service record.** Look for regular servicing by a Porsche dealer or a known specialist, with invoices, not just stamps. Low-mileage cars still need servicing by time: brake fluid every two years, and so on. - **Recalls.** Ask a dealer to check the VIN. See the [recalls guide](/guides/recalls-and-known-issues/). - **Specification.** The option codes are listed on a sticker in the service book and under the bonnet on older cars, and a dealer can print the build specification for later ones. Check that the car matches. - **Over-rev report.** On manual cars from the 996 onward, the engine control unit records over-revs in bands, with the engine hours at which they happened. A dealer or specialist can read it. Recent high-band over-revs from a missed downshift are a reason to walk away or negotiate. - **Accident history.** Use the checks available in your country, and look for paint depth differences, uneven panel gaps and overspray. ## Engine checks by family **M96 and M97: 986, 987 first generation, 996, 997 first generation (not Turbo, GT3 or GT2)** - *Intermediate shaft (IMS) bearing.* The bearing supporting the shaft that drives the camshafts can fail, usually with little warning, and the result is normally a destroyed engine. Failure rates vary by year and bearing type and are argued over endlessly; what matters is whether the car in front of you has had an uprated bearing fitted, with paperwork. Engines built from about 2006 have a larger bearing that fails less often but cannot be replaced without dismantling the engine. - *Bore scoring.* Scuffing of the cylinder walls, most often reported on 3.4, 3.6 and 3.8 engines. Signs include one sooty tailpipe, rising oil consumption and a rhythmic ticking when warm. A borescope inspection through the spark plug holes or sump is the only way to be sure, and is worth paying for. - *Rear main seal.* A weep between engine and gearbox is common and usually harmless, but note it. **Mezger engines: 996 and 997 Turbo, GT3 and GT2** Strong and sought after. Ask whether the coolant pipe fittings have been pinned or welded. Check clutch and, on GT cars, track history. **9A1 and later: second-generation 997, 987 second generation, 981, 991, 718, 992** No intermediate shaft and a much better reputation. Isolated bore scoring cases have been reported but are uncommon. Check for coolant leaks, high-pressure fuel pump replacement on early cars, and change-over valve faults. On 2014 GT3s, confirm the engine replacement carried out under recall. **Air-cooled: up to the 993** Look for oil leaks, broken head studs on SC and 3.2 engines, valve guide wear, and a leak-down test result. A top-end rebuild is a normal event in the life of these engines and is expensive. ## The rest of the car - **Corrosion.** Galvanised bodies resist rust well, but look at the sills, front wings and screen surrounds of air-cooled cars and at any car with accident repairs. Check 996 and 997 exhaust fixings, brake pipes and suspension arms. - **Radiators and condensers.** Look through the front intakes with a torch. A mat of rotting leaves means corrosion behind it. - **Suspension.** Listen for knocks from lower arms and top mounts. Check that PASM dampers are not leaking and that front axle lift works. - **PDK and Tiptronic.** Should shift cleanly without flaring or thumps. PDK is generally reliable; faults can be expensive, so check for warning messages and service history. - **Clutch.** A heavy pedal on a manual car suggests a worn clutch. - **Brakes.** Measure the discs. Inspect ceramic discs closely for chips and wear, and price replacements before you buy. - **Roof.** Operate a Cabriolet, Boxster or Targa roof several times. Check drains and carpets for damp. - **Tyres.** Matching, Porsche-approved tyres of a recent date suggest a careful owner. Heavy inner-edge wear points to geometry or worn arms. - **Electrics.** Try everything: air conditioning, seats, the infotainment system, parking sensors, spoiler. ## Get an inspection A pre-purchase inspection by an independent Porsche specialist is the best money you will spend. Ask for a borescope on M96 and M97 engines, an over-rev readout, a paint depth survey and a lift inspection. Porsche's own approved used schemes include a warranty that can be extended, which has real value on complex cars. ## Then go somewhere Once it is yours, the [road trip preparation guide](/guides/road-trip-preparation/) covers the first long journey, and the [trail guides](/trails/) suggest where to point it.